Windhorse Sailing

The Mission Statement on the home page of this website uses the phrase “circumnavigate South America.” When I wrote that I envisioned visiting great cities such as Buenos Aires and Rio De Janiero to name a few. I envisioned side trips to The Galopagos and Machu Pichu. However, all the focus and preparations indeed even the choice of Shangri-La as our vessel, have centered on the rounding of Cape Horn.

In sailing the phrase “weather allowing” shapes most decisions. In addition to teamwork, energy and determination we have enlisted research of local knowledge and technology to help us decipher what weather will allow. Recently, I sent the following email to my fellow crew members.

May 24 2005

Francis and Gavin,

The thinking right now is that postponing until October may be a good idea. There are many interests we each could pursue in the meantime.
It would not be time wasted. However before making the decision I think it is worth making a case for a try now. In reading three sources at hand now, namely:
South Atlantic Circuit (SAC)- Tom Morgan 2002
Chile, Arica Desert to Tierra Del Fuego (CH)- Andrew Ogrady 2004
SAC and CH are ROYAL Cruising Club Pilotage Foundation
Patagonia and Tierra Del Fuego Nautical Guide (PAT)- Rolfo y Ardrizzi 2004

These books have plenty of information and agree that winter is not popular, but does not present unnecessary dangers for the well prepared.

PAT covers the southern route from Mar del Plata and says “in our opinion, the route from the Caribbean to Europe, followed by hundreds of yachts every year, can be more difficult and dangerous.” With regard to seasons Pat says ” in winter, the two high pressure centers retreat leaving a wider passage to the depressions. Isobars are well spaced, winds lighter and days colder. Furthermore, Tierra del Fuego creates a small High pressure (cold and dry) barrier that apparently shields it from depressions, which tend to slide either N or S. Winds often come from N/NE and days are clear and very cold…” PAT goes on to suggest that this is increasingly the norm for the area.

With regard to dangers, there are three worries.
1. Sudestadas- SE blow that is rare,7 or so a year, 2 or 3 that are strong. It usually blows between March and October. However, sudestadas are found above 45 degrees south up to Brazil. With Mar del Plata at 38S we are quickly out of harms way.
2. Cold fronts - Usually last 2-3 days and are less pronounced in winter because of the high-pressure centers described above. PAT suggests be prepared to hove to for these. PAT seems to suggest that the cold will be the danger with these.
3. The 188 mile stretch SE from Estrecho de Magallenos to Estrecho De La Maire - Although following winds can be expected for this leg there are no protected anchorages. However there is a safe anchorage just before the Estrecho de la Maire called Bahia Thetis. “It is conveniently located for crews in need of rest after a south bound passage and to wait for the favorable tide the Estrecho de la Maire.” Estrecho de la Maire is then a 14 mile slog against the westerlies.

As far as course, South PAT recommends “the longer, but calmer and safer inshore course.,” as close to shore as possible “avoiding big seas raised by the fetch further out.” West winds predominate and fronts turn wind from NW to SW so you are consistently blown offshore. By the pilot charts it seems we can set waypoints down the coast and preprogram sheltered anchorage waypoints off those as contingencies. ” S-bound sailors should be ready to deal with at least a couple of cold fronts, with many hours spent hove-to.” (less in winter.)

Once in the Beagle Channel our concerns are different and are addressed by CH. Concerning winter, CH agrees with PAT saying, “In the winter a high often establishes itself over southern Argentina, pushing the lows either far S or far N, providing very cold, but calm, or easterly, weather with cloudless skies in the canales.” Moreover, “Those who have experienced these (winter) conditions, in yachts with good heating and winter clothes, highly recommends winter cruising in this area.”

This leg also has three main dangers:
1. Williwaws anytime of year - Locals call them Rachas they are violent squalls resulting from eddies set up in high level winds by the mountains. “These squalls can come from any direction and are known to exceed 100 knots on occasion.” Ground tackle is paramount in this area.
2. Ice - Extremely cold water allows the more sheltered anchorages can freeze over. CH suggests that the ice can be broken by the bow. Certainly Shangri-La’s 17 millimeter thick bow can take it. Ice will likely only present a problem at “shallower inlets well inland” which we can easily avoid.
3. The cold - With prudence, good gear, the heater, oven, and an excess of fuel we should manage well. I have dreamt of Patagonia all my life and never in my dreams was it warm.

With regard to course, we make our way through the main “canales” north as much as the short days will allow. Most of the year winds are down if not nonexistent at night and “making it easier to go west at night or in the early morning."-CH. As we get north toward Puerto Montt the Northerlies predominate in winter. All these things point to slow going through the canales, but I feel the risks are manageable and comparable to other seasons.

I make my case for the cape in July, because I want to go. I ask you both to do your own research as I will do more, and come to your own conclusion. We can only succeed if we all believe in goal.

A couple other notes. We will have the boat in Yacht club Argentino at MAR DEL PLATA. SAC “the staff are very helpful and are a mine of information.” It is 270 miles from Buenos Aires by river (PAT). There are many machine shops and a north sails, fuel, provisioning. Overall a recommended staging point.

I think launch in late June is realistic and 2-3 months duration is fair. I have extended emails to Skip Novak and L&L Pardy asking for thoughts, ideas and resources. No reply yet. Any feedback would be great. Live the dream. LUKE